A SHANGHAI  SERMON  

by Yvonne Daniel at Beth El Congregation, Baltimore, MD
Presented on MAY 13, 2006

Many of you here today are aware that I recently returned from a trip to China. So what, you may say. I’m certain there are many of you here today who have made this trip.  My trip, however, was a bit unique. My husband Rene and I went to only one city – Shanghai. From 1937-1948 20,000 Jews lived in Shanghai. My family was among them and I was born there. This trip was my homecoming.

During WW II almost all countries in the world had shut their doors to the Jews. As the persecution of the Jews flourished in Europe, there was virtually nowhere for them to go. Shanghai, however, was an open port city which required no papers or visas, and by the end of June 1939, nearly 10,000 European Jewish refugees had escaped to Shanghai in less than 7 months, and thousands more would come totaling close to 20,000.

Just try and imagine the adjustments these people had to make. The climate, the customs, the language, the dress, nothing was even remotely familiar. The living conditions were deplorable and the deprivation was rampant.
 

            Somehow, they managed not only to exist, but to build a life for themselves in this foreign land. Many, like my parents, lived there for 10 years or more. People opened businesses, children went to school, synagogues were established, sports teams were formed and life happened. They managed to build a little Europe, surrounded by Asia.

By the Spring of 1943, the Japanese, who occupied Shanghai, created a ghetto into which all stateless refugees had to move. This included the thousands of Jews. The living conditions now worsened. This ghetto was called Hongkew. It was where I lived with my parents until 1947 when we left.

This trip was known as the” Rickshaw Reunion” and those of us who attended were of various ages. As such, there were those who had vivid memories of their lives in the ghetto and others, such as myself, who were too young to have any first hand memories and have only  photographs and stories. One thing we all had in common. The years that our families lived in Shanghai, although hard and desperate at times, were years of survival. No one was trying to kill us – we were treated humanely and often kindly by our Chinese neighbors. It was with this knowledge that 109 of us returned to Shanghai for this reunion.

This was the opportunity I had waited for – to return with others who had shared this same experience.

Our group consisted of those who were actually “Shanghailanders”, as we were called, along with spouses, children and grandchildren.  Eleven of us were born there.

Meeting and greeting each other was the beginning. We came from different countries such as Canada, Australia, Switzerland and the US and although most of us had never met, there was an immediate bond, having shared this unique aspect of our lives.

            Our trip began with a visit to the “Center of Jewish Studies in Shanghai” which was established in 1988 and is led by Pan Guang, a man who has a deep interest, understanding and respect for the Jewish people. His center is the most influential research institution on Jewish and Israeli studies in China.  The center is responsible for several dozen Chinese students taking courses in Israel with China paying their airfare and Israel picking up the rest of the expenses. They have sponsored international conferences and exhibits on Jews, on the Holocaust, and on Israel. They are also sponsoring the teaching of Hebrew to Chinese school children and some students are even learning Jewish songs.  As we arrived at this center, we were welcomed with these words, translated into English “We welcome you to your old home. We always remember you and welcome you. This is your home as well as our home”.

Let me mention here that our visit was a big media event. We were followed everywhere by reporters and cameramen and most of us were interviewed individually. Stories appeared in the local Chinese and English language newspapers and even in the Jerusalem Post.

Our welcome dinner that evening was attended by the Shanghai Mayor’s representative, the former Chinese Ambassador to the United Nations,  the Chairman of the Shanghai Jewish Community and Rabbi Greenberg – more about him later. Again, as a sign of welcome, we were presented with two large calligraphy banners which read “Shanghai is forever your home” and “Long Live Chinese Jewish friendship”.

            It was, however, the next day that proved to be the highlight of the trip. We were to go to Hongkew, the ghetto area where we had lived. As a group, we walked together to Wayside Park wherein stands a granite monument with words written in English, Chinese and Hebrew.  In part it reads,”…Thousands of Jews came to Shanghai fleeing from Nazi persecution. Japanese occupation authorities regarded them as “stateless refugees” and set up this designated area to restrict their residence and business.”

            As we approached the monument, the music from “Schindler’s List” was playing and, needless to say, we all lost it. Add to this the sight of elderly Chinese people who still live in this area, standing all around the perimeter. They were all smiling and nodding as if to say, we remember you and welcome you back. It was an incredible moment.

            There was also a banner there which we were all asked to sign to be used as a petition to UNESCO in an attempt to preserve and delicate the Hongkew area as an area of historical significance.

            From the park, we walked to the Ohel Moshe shul where we met Dvir Bar-Gal, an Israeli who is making an effort to recover headstones from the 3 Jewish cemeteries that were destroyed and no longer exist. He hopes to build a memorial with the goal of saving, restoring and documenting this piece of Jewish history in Shanghai.  I personally am hoping he recovers the headstone of my brother Peter Heumann who died in Shanghai in 1943 at 13 months of age.

            While in the ghetto, many who were old enough to remember their lives in Shanghai returned to the houses they had lived in, some of which are now still inhabited. One man actually recognized some of his family’s furniture which was still being used.  My house unfortunately is now an electronics store. The address of my father’s shop is on a street where all the buildings are slated to be torn down.

            For Friday night some of us had prearranged to attend Shabbos services and to have dinner at the local Chabad shul – the only game in town – led by Rabbi Greenberg who is originally from Brooklyn, NY.  Well, we were not the only ones.  Over 100 people attended this Chabad-Lubavitcher service; some residents, some businessmen, an entire group of Israelis and even some young adult women.  The women sat behind a mechitza and the Sephardic service was unfamiliar, but all of us enjoyed a full, kosher Shabbat dinner and the entire experience was quite amazing.

            I feel I must include a few words about Shanghai itself. It is an overpopulated city of 17 1/2 million people. The government has imposed a limit of one child per family, which is strictly enforced. The roads are overcrowded, the air is polluted, the streets are spotless.

            The architecture is amazing – one building is more spectacular than another and at night when they are lit, it is a sight to behold.  Right next to these fabulous buildings are high rises (with more being built all over town) where there is laundry hanging out of every window since no one owns a clothes dryer. The people are somber and serious but if you smile at them, they will return your greeting. They drive like maniacs with no car yielding to another. To cross a street, you are taking your life in your hands.

            They also say that Shanghai is a shopper’s paradise although that was far from our thoughts on this trip. However, Rene had a suit made which he is wearing today and the jacket I am wearing was bought in a silk factory outside of Shanghai.

            Aside from our purchases, we came home with many special memories. We now have friends in other parts of the world – friends that seem more like family. We have a fuller understanding and appreciation of the sacrifices made by our parents and we are forever indebted to the Chinese people for giving us shelter and letting us live peacefully among them.

            I have tried to give you a taste of our trip. I have emphasized the Jewish aspects, which were also the highlights. I wish for you to each take away with you today the knowledge of this piece of Jewish history and the understanding that at a time in the world when so few were there for the Jewish people, this city of Shanghai, in this foreign land, served as a safe haven for so many. For this we should all be grateful.